Friday, July 31, 2015

Flapper Friday

We don't have a lot to post for now. Yesterday was our lunchtime climbing day. Unfortunately, I forgot my bag at home and we didn't realize it until we got to the gym. No shoes, no tape, no chalk. We decided to just go home and put off climbing until today.

So today we met up at NARG after lunch. It was a pretty good day of climbing, though we kept it fairly simple. Beth did all of the ones and a few twos. I jumped around on some fours that I couldn't do, so I got on a couple of sevens (good idea, eh?). Unfortunately, I was stupid and pushed a little too hard and got a flapper on a dynamic move on that last seven. In the gym. I haven't gotten a flapper in years, and it's not like it was really even worth it! Oh well, luckily flappers tend to heal pretty quickly, and it could have been worse: I could have tweaked a tendon too. Picture coming soon (when I change my band aid).

Thursday, July 23, 2015

Thursday-Lunch Climbing Sessions

I love Thursdays! At least right now, because I can meet up with Beth at NARG for a quick lunch climbing session. And the best part? Just look...

Almost no one climbs at NARG from 1:00 to 2:00! There are a surprising number of people that hit it for a lunch session as soon as they open, but it trickles off after one.

We both warmed up and then did a quick, basic 4x4 since it was so easy to jump on the climbs we needed. Plus, since I was planning to finish work at home today, I didn't have to worry about showering there afterward. Otherwise, I normally get in a lot of volume on some easier routes.

Can't wait till our next trip to Hueco Tanks!

Monday, July 20, 2015

Monday = Pull-Up Day

So Mondays are our pull-up days. We're trying to maintain three days "on" but without tearing up our fingers (yet). I'm pretty sure we got this from Rock and Ice, but I can't find the link right now. Basically, do a set of pull-ups in one minute. Any extra time is rest time. Repeat for five minutes. Rest five minutes. Then repeat this 10-minute workout 4-5 times.

Beth did three sets of two-pull-up rounds for a total of 30! And she did them in her awesome new Fractal.9 yoga pants!

Beth finishing up her pull-up workout. Check out those awesome Fractals!
I started off with several minutes in my rice bucket to warm up. I tried the rice bucket workout a while back but injured my finger (I must have ramped up too quickly) so I'm starting back in slowly. Right now I just play around in the rice a bit, squeezing and spreading my fingers, and deep fist rotations. Then I did five sets of five-pull-up rounds, ending with my last set on the Rock Rings. I haven't done them in a couple of weeks because of my shoulder, so hopefully it doesn't hurt too much tomorrow morning. Next week I'm hoping to increase it to six-pull-up rounds, we'll see.

Gotta get into shape for Hueco Tanks!

Sunday, July 19, 2015

Short climbing day at Reimer's Ranch

Today was the first time we got back on a rope since January or February, so we took it pretty easy. We went to Dead Cats at Reimer's Ranch and climbed several of the routes we're really comfortable with. It's been really hard to climb outside here in Austin with the weather this year, so we've mostly been training in the gym. Unfortunately, neither gym climbing nor limestone really prepare your fingers for the rock at Hueco Tanks!

It's hard to take sport climbing photos when there are just two of you, so we don't have anything to share in that regard. But Beth did find a nice place to do a little bit of yoga afterward, with quite an amazing view!

Beth doing Tree Pose while looking out at the Pedernales River.
Yesterday I got to go to Rogers Park with Austin and Nicole. We hit a few of the easier problems, and then Austin flew up Dugout like it was nothing. Rogers is full of awesome overhanging limestone walls, but it is a couple hours outside of the city.

Nicole working Abash.
Me flashing Abash. Thanks for snapping a shot Austin!

Austin flying up Reach, though his topout looked pretty awkward.